Saturday, May 29, 2010

Kete at Funeral in Kwaman




dancing in the middle of the street for the entire town.


Saturday May 29 Today we were invited to play at a local funeral in KWAMAN ASHANTI.
"Summer here's and the time is right for dancin' in the streets." If the image that have I just uploaded ever uploads you will see me dancing in the street of Kwaman with beautiful women dresses in red and black for the funeral that we were invited to play and dance at. All funerals in Ghana are an opportunity for the townspeople to come into the streets play music dance and eat together. It was a blast.

I am studying with some hard core musicians a dancers. We're up by 6:30.We eat breakfast at 7 and start studying by 9. we work until 12. Lunch at 12:30, back to the studies at 1:30/2 we work until 5. Dinner is around 6/6:30. I spend evenings writing, hand washing some clothes, or chatting with friends here. I have been to a local restaurant called The simple store. They have some cold drinks and snacks.

Sunday the 30th was a down day. I was awakened by the yelling of hallelujah outside my window. A church rents the yard of the hotel for Sunday morning inspirational meetings. I never knew how loud these tent events were; microphones, electric piano, and singing. So instead of 6:30 wake-up I tried to sleep until 8 instead. I was not successful.

We went to market. The town was mostly shut down for the sabbath but enough stores were open for us to by the things we left behind, soap, flip flops, towels, comb, I even found a baker and bought some muffins for tea. The walk around town was interesting. I will try to upload some photos. There are no sidewalks and the roads are a red clay mixed with occasional paving. There are many pot holes everywhere. Ghanaian money is called Ceedees and are valued at 1.41 CD to the American dollar. that a great rate of exchange almost half again. Things are very inexpensive here too.




Monday may 31,

Early lesson mostly drumming Kete today. I played Dawuro (bells)and Apentemma (middle sized drum played with your hands not sticks) . the Dawuro plays a rhythmic pattern that almost never varies. one has to listen to the Big master drum for any changes. When you dance it is the same. The movements are prescribed but hyou do not know whne to do them. You dance a certain step together in a circle or line until the master drum calls out the rhythm that goes with the change of step. it's very improvisational even though you know the changes you don't know when there coming. You have to really listen. there are cues that come just before the changes are called out from the master drum.
Fitting the rhythm of the Apentemma drum(voice) over the Dawuro was hard aty first,. you have to wait until you really feel the rhythm of the dawuro and know where your voice fits inside that rhythm. Then you play it so many times you begin to feel very inside your own rhythm comfortably and then you can begin to hear all the voices(drums rhythms) around you together and not get confused. It's very powerful (emotional).




Kwabena, a dancer, worked with me on just arm movements today.
It is important to learn where the hands should be in realtionship to each other and that they move with your feet. you have to listen very carefully to know when to start the pattern. More to come about dancing.

Da yie
Goodnight 9:45 Ghana time

Ms. Brown











The music: Prior to this trip royal hartigan (insists that the spelling of his name be in lower case) started teaching me Gahu Rhythms of the Ewe people of Ghana. A quote from royal’s book on West African Rhythms for Drumset, chapter 3, “Gahu is recreational dance music of the Ewe people of West Africa. It is played at social occasions as a way for people to get acquainted with each other. Drum, bells, and rattle s make up the Gahu ensemble, each with its own voice, like different people.” He started teaching me the rhythm for metal double bell called GANKOGUI. It is made up of a large bell attached to a small bell. Like a mother and child. All the dancers and drummers rely on this steady beat. It is the main rhythm of the ensemble much like a time signature and metronome would be for an instrumentalist reading a score or a clave rhythm in a Latin band. However, Ewe music is traditionally taught by listening and imitating. The master drummer plays it and might demonstrate how the drum rhythm fits into the bell rhythm. It is only written down on staff paper, we call this transcribing, by musicians and ethnomusicologists trained at universities and conservatories.

The Bell rhythm (for all the good music theory students at GLCPS) is called Large bell “TIN” and the small sound “GO” You can think of this in 4/4 time. (Play the syllables only on the notes NOT the rests.
"Tin" "Go"
dotted eighthnote sixteenthnote
(Beat One)


"GO"
eighth rest eightnote
(Beat Two)
"Go"
eighthrest eighthnote
(Beat three)


"Go"
eighth rest eighth note.
(BEAT FOUR)


this one measure repeats a lot.

Try writing the rhythm on manuscript paper. The paper is located in a box under my phone in the music room. Mr. Steele can help you get started. It is only one measure of music in 4/4 time. Use a bottom space #1 for the lower pitch bell “tin” and the top space #4 for the higher pitch “go”.

Practice the rhythm.

Akwaaba- Welcome (to Ghana)


7:40 Am Accra time, 3:40 AM in New Bedford Thursday May 27, we arrived after 10 hours and 55 minutes, as scheduled, in Accra. The door at the rear of the plane opened, lucky me, I was the first passenger outside. I took my sweatshirt (the plane was cold) off immediately. The air was so warm. The airport was small, luggage came quickly and customs was painless. We met Kwabena and our driver and quickly packed the van. Oh, we used the bathroom in the terminal. We were warned that the drive to Mampong was very long and that there were very few official places to stop. My bladder is small. I visualized my four rolls of toilet paper in my luggage. Thanks to the creator of all things, my luggage was on the top of the pile in the trunk space.

I will insert pictures of the trip north. (so far having trouble with this function) Our first stop was the New Haven Hotel in Accra for breakfast. I ate Abbie’s avocado. I tried the local egg and compared it to the two we had left from the states. I’ll show you the picture.(sorry can't upload image) The yolks here are white.
The 6 hour drive. There were towns, markets, merchants, some chubby women in local garb, merchants men and women selling foods and wares balanced on their heads, huge pot holes, the paved roads that turned into dirt and rocky roads then paved again.
The mountains in the distance got larger until finally we ascended into them. The palette started grey, dusty, filled with billboards, urban browns turning into lush green as we went north. The shanty towns morphed into communities with painted pink and blue entrances, mosques that make the landscape look Middle Eastern with minarets and Arabic writing. Christian communities with inviting billboards; “The Doorway to Heaven”, “El Shaddai”, this one freaked me out, it’s a Hebrew name for God, and many others with the words, hope, love, Beth El, etc. Chubbiness is a sign of wealth in Africa, even if it is just an appearance. Get this; to be called “fat” is a compliment. I can dig this.

We had the windows open the entire trip; 6 hours. Try it sometime. We survived the bumpy noisy trip. My hair didn’t. Amazingly the four tires and brakes did too. The town of Mampong looked larger and more coherent as a town than many of the little roadside communities we passed on the journey. There are no sidewalks, the perimeter of the dusty roads in the center of town have huge water aqueducts that are big enough to fall through as well as deep and they have no covers or grates. There are 3 hotels in this town. I guess these are for the traveling guests to a local wedding or celebration. Why else? Also, the Video City Hotel, the one I am staying at, is attached to a cinema. It is not used much these days. The property is run by a man named Joe whose Ghanaian wife lives and works in Virginia. He is in his 30’s , handsome and very smart. He is often frustrated with the Ghanaian Government. His complaints about the government here sound very similar to the complaints that many people in the states have about our government. It could be worse. Here corruption has denied people clean water systems, electricity (it doesn’t always stay on because it’s parts are old and not updated), and health care for serious illness. So where do there tax dollars go? Hmmmmmm I will try to keep politics out of the blog. But it’s complicated. It is tangled up in the life and music of Ghana.

day 1 continued

We had a five hour layover in NY. Sitting in or near an airport was not the ideal place to spend 5 hours. I convinced two young ladies to take the Airbus, the A train and the S train to Far Rockaway Beach, B116 to be exact. We arrived 1 hour later on a very crowded S train; it seemed like all the high schools emptied out onto our S train. We found a deli, bought some sandwiches, chips and cold drinks and proceeded to the beach area. We found a table shaded by an umbrella advertising some local goodies by one of those great smelling everything fried beach stands. I resisted the soft serve even though I knew I wouldn’t see ice cream where I was going, definitely not soft serve.

We enjoyed getting to know each other, Lauren, Abbie, and me. We noticed it was 3PM. We were taking an international flight, this means you need to arrive 2 hours earlier than departure. Do the math, it was 3, it took an hour to get to Far Rockaway and our flight was scheduled to leave at 4:45PM back at JFK. Hmmmmmmm. We had definitely lost track of time. Airports run on time. Subways do not. There was a little anxiety building as we waited, seated on the train, 15 minutes for the S train to move out of the track. Another 15 minute wait, this time on the hot platform at Broad Channel for the A to Howard Beach, and another wait for the Airbus to terminal 3. The city subway system had let me down so many times in my previous life in New York, depending on it as my mode of transportation as a commuter was crazy. But now I was a tourist, showing off NYC, this shouldn’t be happening. Abbie used her phone internet to find the gate number and we raced through the corridors to the security check point. Oh My Goodness. There were about 100 people waiting to go through security. It was now 4PM; I had a boarding pass without an assigned seat. We found an official looking Delta airlines person and ended up on the special line. We were certainly special.
As I ran to the gate my mind was flooded with spiritual questions. How does one explain the fact that we can get a JFK terminal map, in seconds, displayed on our phones while sitting on a subway and the New York City subway system has never run on a schedule? Was this an omen from Africa? What did it mean? Was I experiencing a premonition from the world I was about to visit? I have to pee, where’s the nearest bathroom? Gate 4, we made it. I waited at the ticketing desk and a gentle soft spoken Ghanaian man told me not to worry, go to the bathroom. He couldn’t give me a seat yet. Should I be concerned? I took a deep breath. I went to pee?

Professor hartigan told me that earlier, when he was in the men’s room, he heard my name paged and ran out to the desk to tell them I was in the terminal. I can hardly comprehend the names coming out of the speakers in an airport. Amazing to be traveling with musicians, they hear all sorts of things. The flight didn’t finish boarding until after 5PM. We sat, closed in in the plane, at the gate for an hour before we taxied to the runway. Everything was late; I soon learned that this was Ghana time.

The cool seats in a jet are the seats in the exit door rows. They are more spacious. Those are the first to get reserved. I had the last seat in the rear of the jet. I think it was 54F, against the bathroom wall, on the aisle. I was able to take cat naps but didn’t ever feel rested. I watched a bittersweet romance called Dear John. I had nothing but time to waste, don’t waste yours. I won for having the most interesting neighbor on the plane, a Ghanaian woman, my age with a similar personal story. She raised 4 boys. She moved to No. Carolina part time 4 years ago and now makes her home there. She imports clothing and has traveled all over the map. We had so much to share. Honestly, her stories are incredible anyone of them would make a good book, especially the one that takes place at the start of the revolution, fleeing Liberia with two young boys, besieged by gunshots. I will call her while I am in Ghana and possibly we’ll see each other again in Accra before I return to the states. I will definitely invite her to visit New Bedford. I would love for her to meet our students.

Too bad I am having trouble uploading great photos.
Next entry immediately follows.
All the best, Ms. Brown

The trip begins

5/25 Wednesday

We left Boston for the first leg of out trip missing one member of our group. He had not paid for his visa to be expedited. This is a choice option on the check off. According to his friends, he also procrastinated and mailed the application very late. The day of the trip NO PASSPORT! After many phone calls to the embassy and post offices he found out that his visa was already in the mail but traveling by camel. Oh, also the camel was headed for Shrewsbury MA. The earliest he could pick up his visa was at 9 or 10 AM. He was not going to make the first flight Boston to NY with the group, check in was 9:15 for a 10:15 flight. What an incredible ‘supermom to the rescue moment’, she put on her cape and schlepped to Shrewsbury and then to New York for a 4:45PM boarding of the second flight to Accra. By the way the accent is on the ‘cra’ the second syllable of Accra. Oh, she then had to drive back home to Fitchburg, MA. What a mom. That was my first encounter with Adam.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Logan Airport

Good Morning GLCPS,

http://youtube.com/watch?v=lDNFnfSkH7E

Check out the Gahu dancing, singing and drumming. This is the study I am taking with royal hartigan the professor of world music at Umass Dartmouth. Hey I found my hips!
This video is in place of the Music in the Morning for today.
I miss you all.

Mrs. Brown

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

got the sun in the mornin' and the moon at night, got my visa.

Monday my visa returned to the post office after 5PM. They called me on my cell phone and told me to come to the downtown station and that they would open the window for me. Hooray, finally got my visa.

It is midnight, I am packed but too excited to sleep yet. I am leaving at 5:15AM to pick up Professor Hartigan. My son Meyer is driving us to Logan airport. Right now it is 4:13 AM in Accra, Ghana and 12:13 AM here. What is the time difference?

Monday, May 24, 2010

Visa in sight

Today I stopped at my house for a quick errand and check for the Visa's arrival. The mailperson had already delivered the mail. I found a slip of paper they left that requested my signature and the possibility that my package (visa) will arrive at my house in the next two days. OH NO!

I made it to the Post Office to gievthem my story, I'll be traveling to airport 5am yada yada...
They will open the office for me after hours, when the mail people have returned with the indelivered mail. PHEW! Yhey will open the post office for me, oh my.

Update this afternoon.
Wish me luck.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Where in the world is my Visa?

This is scarey. I am leaving for Ghana in 5 days. I do not have my visa yet. In the package with my application was my passport too.

The members of this trip are meeting for dinner Saturday evening. My son Meyer will be driving Royal and I to the airport Wednesday morning at 6:30 AM.

Here is the wiki website for Ghana. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghana
This is how you say hello in Ghana. I haven't learned yet which of the 3 Ghanaian dialects below is the one used in mampong-ashanti.
There 3 languages are spoken in Ghana, Twi ( pronounced ch-wee), Ghanaian and a little bit of English.

Ghana
Twi: ete-sen
Ga: meeng-gah-bou (spoken in the capital Accra)
Hausa: sannu (spoken in northern Ghana)
English: Hello

Common Twi phrases. http://wikitravel.org/en/Twi

Da Yie,
Mrs. Brown

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Today I heard about drums for sale from my newest friend from Ghana, Koblavi.
I met him last week at the Zeiterion theatre in New Bedford, MA, USA. He was performing authentic dance and percussion with the UMASS Dartmouth African Drumming and Dance Group led by Kwebana and Royal Hartigan.
He is presently a student at Berklee College of Music in Boston, MA, USA. Since I will be travleing to Ghana on May 26 with a group to study dance and drumming and purchase drums for my classroom he recommended http://universaldrums.com/. I have contacted them to make an appointment to see the drums.
I will be staying at the Video City Hotel in Mampong town, Ashante Region, Ghana, West Africa. One of the members of the trip is from Ghana. He is an amazing dancer and teacher. His name is Kwabena. The hotal number - 011 233 561 22676 - was given to me but it was mentioned that that was the number they used last year. I don't know if that is still correct. I tried researching the hotel in the Ghana Yellow pages and couldn't find the listing. http://www.ghanaweb.com/GhanaHomePage/telephone_directory/drilldownlistings.php?tlink=home&nxTen=7&Page=80&Catname=17&ec1=2&lc=345&name=


These are ewe drums. I am planning on purchsing a set or two in Ghana.

Trouble with Visas

It seems that the Ghana Embassy raised its rates for an expedited visa on May 1, 2010. According to the website the students, from UMASSD, and I used the fee had not been updated and was listed at $80.00. All of our applications were returned to us with a week or less to the departure date. Professor Royal Hartigan called me today very concerned. I remailed the application (in quadruplicate) with a new money order Saturday May 14. The students/other attendees have hopefully responded quickly as well. I am thinking positively.

Monday, May 17, 2010

What I had to do to get ready

I will be traveling to Mampong-Ashanti, Ghana, Africa, for a three week intensive music program studying drumming and Dance. I will be traveling with music students from Umass Dartmouth, professor Royal Hartigan and the African Dance instructor Kwabena Boateng.
To prepare for this trip I went to a medical center to get the recommended vaccinations for a trip to Ghana. Hepatitus A, Hepatitus B, Polio, Typhoid, Tdap(Tetanus, Dpitheria, Whooping Cough(pertussis), Yellow Fever was mandatory. To visit Ghana one needs a visa. This is application is like asking the government for permission to visit. I corresponded with The Embassy of Ghana, 3512 International Dr. , Washington, D.C. 20008. The website for the embassy has interesting information http://www.ghana-embassy.org/. I am flying on Delta airlines,Wednesday May 26, from Boston departing, 10:15 arrive NY 11:33 Am for a connecting flight to Accra, Ghana departing 4:45 PM then arriving Accra Thursday at 7:40 AM. in preparation for the trip I am shopping for lightweight clothes and special medicines that I will need.

Map of Africa