The people I am traveling with

WORK IN PROGRESS

I went on a trip to Africa to study Ghanaian drumming. On this trip I have endured a drastically different climate with torrential rain, blackouts, and water shortages, limited food choices, and a facility that was unforgiving. However, each day when Fifi wakes me up I feel like I have enough energy to get through the rigorous schedule of drumming, dancing, long conversations about schedules and each others interests. I am fortunate to be traveling with amazing people who seemed to give generously making up for what I was lacking. This type of group is hard to find. Imagine being 6,500 miles away from home in an exotic place, learning in a new style (no notes on a page), no expectations of a finish line (no exam), you become interested in and dependent on each other. The make-up of my community for this trip is the local staff at the Video City Hotel which consists of incredible people taking care of our needs day and night, 4 patient, skilled teachers and 11 students. Together we created a community interested in each others progress, welfare and friendship.

The people I am traveling with:

royal hartigan, a full professor of music at UMass, Dartmouth, and visiting faculty at University of the Philippines, in Quezon City, Manila. Writing books, cd’s and DVD’s about world music with a focus on African and African American tradition. Recorded 3 double CD’s on Innova records. He heads the African Music and Dance program at UMass Dartmouth previously at San Jose State University (CA), and the New School in New York City. Each year he brings students and community members to Ghana. He tap dances, plays piano, drumset and composes. He leads his own group “blood drum and spirit”.









Aziz Botchway – Master drummer and dancer born in Accra, Ghana, advanced studies in drumming at University of Ghana School of Performing Arts graduated 1977. For 7 years he was guest lecturer at University of Wesleyan, Middletown, Connecticut, USA. Recorded and performed with the band Talking Drums.




Kwabena Boateng, actor, dancer, musician, historian, teacher, born in Mampong, Asanti, Ghana. Graduate of Ghana, College of Performing Arts, Institute of African Studies, Accra, Ghana, graduate 1972. He is currently a guest lecturer of Ghanaian dance and music at University of Massachusetts in Dartmouth, Ma, USA. He has held this position for the past 10 years. He lives in Springfield, Ma. USA and summers in Mampong, Ghana.



Yaw Dan Okyere is our incredible drumming and dance teacher. He was born in Mampong, Asanti, Ghana. He is presently a lead drummer with the “Drummers of the King’s Palace.” He was trained in drumming and dancing while in elementary and middle school. He is now a teacher at the local elementary, middle and high schools in the Mampong region.








THE STUDENTS
Toni Bernardo is the leading percussionist and historian for samba music in the Philippines. She plays samba and jazz in a band that tours the Philippines and other countries. She is the founder and diretora da bateria of the Escola De Samba De Manila. Her main instruments are repique, surdo, agogo, caixa, timbao, tamborin, congas, timbales, drumset. She was born and resides in Manila. Toni told me, “I don’t learn through notes. Learning is by heart.” She practices music with her band in parks, she is an incredible samba dancer, and she is a vegetarian and studies Buddhist Meditation.




Tusa Montesis was born on August 20th, in 1980 in the year of the monkey. She is a percussionist with a bachelor of music degree in musicology from the University of the Philippines College of Music, 2003. She is finishing her masters with a thesis on comparative study of indigenous music of Ghana and the Kalinga music of the Philippines. She performs Latin and ethnic percussion with various ensembles. She teaches world music at UP college of music, and the University of Santo Tomas Conservatory of Music.




Abbie Chambers Abbie Chambers was born on June 1, 1976, in South Porcupine, Ontario, Canada. She presently resides in Westport, Ma. She graduated from UMass Dartmouth in 2002 with a BFA in Textiles. Abbie went to a Ghanaian music and dance concert in 2002 and has been dancing and drumming in the program at UMass ever since. This is her fifth trip to Ghana. She makes clothing and sells them through her business called “Moon Tide Dyers” located in New Bedford. All the clothes are original designs produced by hand in our studio in New Bedford. The studio is located in an old textile mill in New Bedford. The studio is a working factory not a store; however a few times a year they have a studio sale. She does Aerial Silks, a circus art in the Ropeworks in New Bedford.







Lauren Falabella received her BFA in sculpture from UMass Dartmouth, 2007. She resides in New Bedford, Ma and works for a local company called “Ahead Headgear.” They do embroidery and direct to garment printing on golf apparel, shirts and hats of all sorts. She started Ghanaian dancing in 2006. She studied ballet, modern, and jazz from kindergarten through high school, but has found the Ghanaian dancing to be the most expressive. She recently started a new class called Aerial Silks, a circus art in the Ropeworks in New Bedford. This is her third trip to Ghana.





Adam Willoughby received his BA in Music education and percussion performance in 2010. He has studied Ghanaian music with royal and Kwabena for 4 years. He participated in the Spartans drum and bugle corps for 2 years 2007 and 2008. Presently Adam is the director of percussion at Fitchburg high School. He lives in Fitchburg, MA.






Kevin Koteles was born in 1987. He received a bachelor of music UMass Dartmouth 2010. Percussionist whose main instrument is the drum set. He has been involved in Ghanaian music and studies for 5 years. This is his 4th trip to Ghana. Kevin teaches marching band and concert percussion for the All City Whalers School Band in New Bedford, MA. This is Kevin’s fourth trip to Ghana. He has taught drumming to children and adults with Down’s syndrome. Kevin was born and resides in Westwood, Ma.









Jennelle Marechand was born in 1987. She graduated, with a BFA, in painting from Massachusetts College of Art, 2009. She studied Ballet since she was three years old. She has been studying and performing Ghanaian dancing for one year and this is her first trip to Ghana. She has been teaching art privately. She resides in Westwood, MA.


Amelia Godzor was born in 1982 in Kopeyia Village, in the Volta Region which is located in the southeastern part of Ghana. She finished middle school and attended a hairdressing school for 2 years. She worked as a hairdresser for many years. Amelia got interested in traditional dance in middle school while studying in their cultural program and continued her studies in the local cultural center. She met Abbie Chambers while teaching traditional dance at Kopeyia’s Dagbe Cultural Centre. They have been friends ever since. She has a 5 year old boy named, Samson Agbeli. She would like to manage her own salon in Accra, and continue teaching and dancing. In her free time she enjoys singing and dancing in the Assemblies of God Church in Accra.





HOTEL STAFF



Joseph Gyimah is the General manager and owner of the Video City Hotel in Mampong, Asanti, Ghana. He was born in Accra schooled and at the Achimota Boarding School in Accra. It is a famous school considered the ‘Harvard’ boarding school of Ghana. The present and many past presidents of Ghana are alumni of that school. He moved to London to attend Middlesex University. He graduated college in 2002 with a bachelor in Business Management. He manages many properties throughout Ghana including farms, rental properties and hotels. Joe is married and has 4 children. His favorite activities include watching television but more importantly he loves to direct independent films. Twice a year Jo visits Virginia to see his family.







Afia Acheampomaa (achiumpuma) is the receptionist and all around ‘get it done person’ at the Video City Hotel since November 2009. Afia was born, June 29, 1989 and lived in Mampong until March 2009 when she moved to Accra. She is a graduate of the Amaniampong Sr. High School in 2008. She would like to go to teachers college and train to be a middle school math teacher. Her favorite thing to do is to sing in church. She also likes football (soccer).

Josephine Ackomah was born in 1976 in Takordi, Ghana. She graduated Nsein High and vocational training school Home Economics, she graduated in 1994. She worked as a cook for many lumber companies, B.R.M in Cape Coast, Samartex in Assarkragua area, Ghana Prime wood in Takordi, Ghana. She travelled to Lebanon for employment cooking for her boss for 2 months. There she learned about Middle Eastern cuisine. Then she cooked for the American company called Wyoming, a gold mining company in the Eastern Region. In July of 2010 Josephine started working at the Video City Hotel and lives in Mampong. Her favorite thing to do is read cookbooks, cook and eat. Some of the local recipes she made for us are , Foofoo, Redred, Kotomire (Swisschard with beans), nketsinkwan (ground nut soup), Banku (okra stew), circle bread with Zaatar, cowpea (bean balls), steamed Yam, fried Yam, Yam Shepard Pie, Plantain, Samosa, spring rolls, corn soup, cauliflower soup and great rice. And lots of delicious food from the kitchen staff was made with love.









Florence Adwoa Serwaa is the assistant chef at the Video City Hotel. She was born in the Abidjan, Ivory Coast, and Africa. She was an apprentice cook in Accra and makes batik material. She is a mom to her 15 year old daughter Akua. Her favorite thing to do is Sing.

Mercy Arthur is an assistant chef at the Video City Hotel in Mampong. She was born in 1981 and raised in Takoradi, Ghana. She graduated Jr. High School 1993 and then attended vocational school to study Home Economics and graduated in 1999. She presently lives in Mampong. She would like to travel to Germany. She loves watching action films and playing tennis.

Appiah Paul was born 1992 in Mampong, Asanti, Ghana. He graduated middle school in 2008. In February 2010 Appiah started working as an all around hotel staff at the Video City Hotel in Mampong. He works 7 days a week. He has no time to visit his family. Appiah is saving money for the fees for high school however he sends his family money every week. Appiah would like to study computer sciences when he continues his education. If he had the day off tomorrow he said, “I would see my mom and then go play drums”. He likes music. He likes working at the hotel.

Fifi
Bio forthcoming


Adjei James was born May 6th 1983 in the town of Mampong, Asanti, Ghana. Graduated Junior high (1999) and completed two years of senior high (2001, 18 years of age). He started working as a cobbler for one and a half years. At 19 1/2 he traveled to Accra to work at a filing station that did auto repairs. At 20 years old he returned to Mampong and started his job as bartender, chamber maid for the mornings, mow lawns and general maintenance. He has been here for 8 months. On his free time he plays football (soccer). He has a daughter in Mampong; unfortunately his relationship with the mom did not work out. But he spends time with her whenever he can. He would like to sell clothing and start a business in Kumasi, the second largest city in Ghana.

Amaniampong Sr. High School, Mampong, Asanti, Ghana

The Ninth photo is of the Assistant Head Master Mr. Baba.

The eighth photo is of the building for the science classrooms

The seventh picture is an 11th grade English class

The Sixth picture is the boys dormitory for boarding student

The fifth picture is the cafeteria.

The fourth picture is of the new dormitory.

The Third picture is of Daniel Quarshie. He is the head of ICT the equivalent of our Derek Stevens. He desperately needs updated computers and INTERNET.

The second picture is of Charles Baidoo assistant head of ICT department

The first picture is of Raymond Oppong Teaching Assistant.(ICT dept)

I miss you all so much
love from Ms. Brown

Tuesday June 8th 2010

The photos below were taken from the roof of the Video City Hotel, Mampong, Asanti, Ghana, Africa.


"Up On The Roof" a hit song by the Drifters
(written by Gerry Goffin and Carole King)

"When this old world starts getting me down
And people are just too much for me to face
I climb way up to the top of the stairs
And all my cares just drift right into space
On the roof, it's peaceful as can be
And there the world below can't bother me
Let me tell you now
When I come home feelin' tired and beat
I go up where the air is fresh and sweet (up on the roof)
I get away from the hustling crowd
And all that rat-race noise down in the street (up on the roof)
On the roof, the only place I know
Where you just have to wish to make it so
Let's go up on the roof (up on the roof)
















For many days we have had no access to internet.

Sunday was a down day. I finished my book, organized the photos and videos that are saved in this computer, washed clothes and went for walks.

The hotel we are staying at is called Video City Hotel. It was built in the 70's by the present owners father. There is a movie house adjacent to the hotel. It is a cavernous room with large paintings that look like posters of old movies and movie stars. Nowadays, the movie house is used to watch sports events like the upcoming World Cup. Ghana's team, The Black Stars, have a very good chance of wining. Sunday evening we sat in this indoor movie stadium and watched a Chris Rock movie about reincarnation(sorry I forgot the name). It was hysterical.

The hotel is on 5 or 6 acres. The owner and manager are thinking of ways to update the facility, create food and flower gardens, and attract more clients. It is situated in a lovely section of the town that is very green and near all the hustle and bustle of the market place.
I had a brainstorming session with them. We thought of visual art courses, music, culinary, marketing, ecology classes that could come to study the environment and suggest green solutions for their problems.

I met with the assistant head master, Mr. Baba, of the Amaniapong high school. I am visiting the school tomorrow. "The students are excited to meet you as you are to meet them", said Mr. Baba. More about that tomorrow.

I miss you all so much. I have learned some great dance steps. There is an opportunity for a GLCPS group to join other dancers studying Ghanaian dancing and drumming in our home town to learn Gahu and Kete.

Asomdwie (peace)
XO
Ms. Brown
P.S. Ms. Gamboa you will love the amazing cloth I am bringing home for our future quilts.

Kete drumming at Funeral in Kwaman, Ghana

Wednesday
Market day, early morning lessons, shopping, and Aziz’s birthday.



There were lessons in the morning.

Wednesday was very hot, walking through the market you felt as if the sun was everywhere. Market day takes over the streets of Mampong. It is vey colorful and noisy.

In the late afternoon I was preparing to go to the internet café but because of the rain it was closed. The merchants along the streets folded their wares into large plastic sheets and plastic tubs and put them on top of their heads and headed for shelter. Everyone here carries their shopping or merchandise on their heads. Often you see women carrying babies on their backs and huge boxes or pails on their heads.



By evening there had already been two blackouts. Not a good night to be wandering around Mampong, even with a flashlight. I am concerned that there will be another blackout or worse a torrential down pour.

I stayed at the hotel and read. I am reading a fabulous book called “Comfort me with Apples” by Ruth Reichl. She is a food critic and journalist and she writes great books that are autobiographical that include recipes. The first book in the series is called “Tender at the Bone”. It was excellent. In that book she writes about her youth and how she became a foodie. The second book, which I am reading now, describes her marriage, loves, interesting food assignments she researched, her travel to china, how she became a famous journalist, and more about her family.


I have great pictures of market day but I am having difficulty uploading them. I will try the glcps website.



I miss everyone.

Tuesday

Tuesday
June 1, 2010

A Jew and a Philipino are walking down the dirt road to the market in Mampong, Ghana and a local calls out “Obrani, et te say?” I should answer, Me hoy ye, but inevitably I answer in English. “I’m fine and you?” ….no this is not the beginning of a bad joke. The translation of ‘obrani’ is white. In this usage it’s like calling out ‘whitey’ or white one, how are you? My friend Toni (from Manilla, Philippines) and I were discussing how in most other cultures we would be perceived independently, an Asian and a white person. This was not derogatory at all. Clearly, we stood out in the throng of students, shoppers and merchants as a curiosity and surprise. People wanted to say hi and welcome us to the village.





We had a drumming lesson until 12. Yaw, our teacher, had to take the afternoon off. After lunch I went to find a special treat for Abbie for her birthday. I found a liquor shop in town and bought 3 bottles of Spanish white wine. I asked the kitchen staff to chill them. We had a great dinner complete with a home made birthday cake and wine. We all made Abbie feel that her 38th birthday was a special day even though she was far from her family and friends at home.


Drumming and dancing is part of the genetic structure of Ghana. In the area we are staying in, the families and merchants often pass by and stop to watch, listen or dance while we practice. Sometimes a local will smile at one of us, it’s a smile of approval Sometimes they will stare at you and motion to watch their arms as they show you where your rhythm should line up, helping you to get back into the right groove. If a local raises their right hand and shakes two fingers towards you that means they like your playing and send you a blessing.

The people of Mampong are very proud of the fact that we are here studying their culture. In the afternoon royal sets up the Kete drums for Tusa and I to review Gahu rhythms. In the different regions of Ghana there are different sets of drums associated with their rhythms. It is almost sacrilegious and pretty odd, to play one region’s rhythms on another region’s drums. If a local stopped to listen for a moment we would stop playing to explain that we didn’t have Ewe drums here and were substituting the Ashanti drums for the purposes of study only. It is moments like these that having English as a common language is helpful.

In Mampong, the weather has many personalities. Saying its hot today is not descriptive enough. The heat can feel warm with a light breeze that seems to cancel the heat. It’s like that New Bedford, 3PM breeze that cools off a summer day. Tuesday morning, during one of our 3 hour dance lessons, I finished 1.5 litres of water before noon, the heat that morning was felt inside my body. By mid afternoon the air in Mampong became heavy and humid. My clothes were stuck to my body and I needed to sit down. A few of us sat under a tin roofed area and shared cold beverages. We cannot put ice in our drinks. Ice is made with tap water that is not boiled. This water is forbidden to a traveler it would be deleterious to our health.

The sky looked angry and began to slowly take over above us. The rain started beating down on the roof in a biblical way. Nearby roof gutters were gushing with water That smacked the ground as it splashed onto the ground. The percussive rhythms of this storm seemed to tell a story. The flowing water over the red earth street made small rivers that meandered around existing pot holes. Pot holes in desperate need of earth filled with water creating red mud baths.

This lasted most of the afternoon. The internet and electricity were down for the evening. Generators were switched on at the hotel but the city was black.

Kete at Funeral in Kwaman

dancing in the middle of the street for the entire town.


Saturday May 29 Today we were invited to play at a local funeral in KWAMAN ASHANTI.
"Summer here's and the time is right for dancin' in the streets." If the image that have I just uploaded ever uploads you will see me dancing in the street of Kwaman with beautiful women dresses in red and black for the funeral that we were invited to play and dance at. All funerals in Ghana are an opportunity for the townspeople to come into the streets play music dance and eat together. It was a blast.

I am studying with some hard core musicians a dancers. We're up by 6:30.We eat breakfast at 7 and start studying by 9. we work until 12. Lunch at 12:30, back to the studies at 1:30/2 we work until 5. Dinner is around 6/6:30. I spend evenings writing, hand washing some clothes, or chatting with friends here. I have been to a local restaurant called The simple store. They have some cold drinks and snacks.

Sunday the 30th was a down day. I was awakened by the yelling of hallelujah outside my window. A church rents the yard of the hotel for Sunday morning inspirational meetings. I never knew how loud these tent events were; microphones, electric piano, and singing. So instead of 6:30 wake-up I tried to sleep until 8 instead. I was not successful.

We went to market. The town was mostly shut down for the sabbath but enough stores were open for us to by the things we left behind, soap, flip flops, towels, comb, I even found a baker and bought some muffins for tea. The walk around town was interesting. I will try to upload some photos. There are no sidewalks and the roads are a red clay mixed with occasional paving. There are many pot holes everywhere. Ghanaian money is called Ceedees and are valued at 1.41 CD to the American dollar. that a great rate of exchange almost half again. Things are very inexpensive here too.




Monday may 31,

Early lesson mostly drumming Kete today. I played Dawuro (bells)and Apentemma (middle sized drum played with your hands not sticks) . the Dawuro plays a rhythmic pattern that almost never varies. one has to listen to the Big master drum for any changes. When you dance it is the same. The movements are prescribed but hyou do not know whne to do them. You dance a certain step together in a circle or line until the master drum calls out the rhythm that goes with the change of step. it's very improvisational even though you know the changes you don't know when there coming. You have to really listen. there are cues that come just before the changes are called out from the master drum.
Fitting the rhythm of the Apentemma drum(voice) over the Dawuro was hard aty first,. you have to wait until you really feel the rhythm of the dawuro and know where your voice fits inside that rhythm. Then you play it so many times you begin to feel very inside your own rhythm comfortably and then you can begin to hear all the voices(drums rhythms) around you together and not get confused. It's very powerful (emotional).




Kwabena, a dancer, worked with me on just arm movements today.
It is important to learn where the hands should be in realtionship to each other and that they move with your feet. you have to listen very carefully to know when to start the pattern. More to come about dancing.

Da yie
Goodnight 9:45 Ghana time

Ms. Brown